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白洁高义篇|揭秘背后的隐秘世界,谁在操控这一切?

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  转自:北京商报

  近日,优衣库宣布将更改线上购物的退货规则,5月后线上下单的产品将不再支持线下退货。虽然仅支持在原购买渠道退货是众多快时尚企业的选择,但优衣库此举依旧引发了消费端的不满。究其原因,优衣库在其重点宣传的官方App和小程序等购买渠道并不提供运费险,这也意味着取消线下退货,消费者将面临自掏腰包承担运费的风险。业内人士指出,此举会影响品牌线上流量以及消费者对品牌的信任度,但基于服装行业普遍存在的线上线下产品存在差异化的现象,未来优衣库也可能会更加灵活地分渠道推出产品。

  私域优势不再

  一向可以“线上购物、线下退货”的优衣库,更改了退货规则。4月23日,北京商报记者在优衣库三里屯旗舰店内看到,门店已贴出公告称,自5月1日起所有线上下单的商品无法拿到优衣库线下门店退货,只能寄回线上指定地址办理退货。换货规则不变,仍支持至门店办理(部分门店除外)。

  关于新规,北京商报记者也询问了优衣库天猫旗舰店,客服自动回复了新的退货规则,与门店公告一致,客服进一步表示,5月1日之前的订单仍可按原规则售后,即在线上网店申请退货退款,将退货商品以及退换货申请单等交给店员。不过,在小红书等社交媒体上,也有IP属地为天津等城市的消费者表示,当地已有门店店员表示不接受线上订单的退货。

  值得注意的是,这一新规引发了一众消费者的不满。优衣库长期消费者丹丹向记者坦言,优衣库之前的一大优势就是打通了全国范围内线上线下的退货通道,方便了没时间线下购物的消费者,并且,近年来优衣库一直试图将消费者往私域引领,更倾向于消费者于掌上优衣库App购买,“但是修改退货规则后,在优衣库自己App购买的优势就没有了”。

  记者调查发现,目前优衣库App支持30天内退换货,而淘宝旗舰店仅支持7天无理由退换货,且在更改退货规则前都支持门店退货。而一旦取消线下退货,也就意味着在优衣库App进行购买的消费者只能进行线上退货,而优衣库天猫旗舰店有赠送运费险,优衣库App则需要消费者自行承担邮费,“考虑到一般在优衣库买的商品非常多,只能线上退货且需要自掏腰包承担邮费,很可能就不会再选择优衣库App了”,丹丹坦言。

  记者在优衣库三里屯旗舰店内看到,在结账柜台周围,有明显广告牌引导消费者扫码下载品牌App,且有会员首次下载优惠20元的活动;柜台前,店员也会建议消费者扫码关注品牌小程序,而优衣库小程序与优衣库App退换货均不提供运费险。

  对于更改退货规则的原因等问题,北京商报记者联系了优衣库品牌方,但截至发稿未给出官方回应。

  或分渠道设立款式

  实际上,多数快时尚品牌都遵循着线上订单线下无法退货的规则。H&M天猫旗舰店客服表示,品牌天猫旗舰店和实体店以及官网是分开经营的,分属不同的销售渠道,暂不支持H&M官方旗舰店的商品在实体店退换;ZARA天猫旗舰店客服也表示,由于平台不同,在天猫官方旗舰店购买的商品无法在实体店或官网进行退换货,同时消费者在实体店或官网购买的商品也需要在对应的渠道退货。

  时尚领域专家张培英认为,基于线上线下不同渠道在售后服务等方面有不同的体系和流程,区分渠道有利于产品入库和库存方面的管理,因而也是服装领域多数企业的选择。实际上,服装行业中,普遍存在着线上线下售卖不同款式的现象,市面上往往存在着“特供款”“网销款”或“专柜款”等,当企业将线上和线下渠道进行明确的售后划分后,也就有利于未来更灵活地分渠道推出不同款式,“对于快时尚行业来说,可能其生产厂商甚至工艺也会有区别”。

  此外,线上订单可以线下退货也增加了门店员工的工作量。曾是优衣库门店员工的张女士向记者坦言,经历过顾客线上买了40件商品,最后分4天拿到门店退货的事情,“客人说一天退的话拎不动,但由于并非门店购买的产品,退货过程会更繁琐”,另据媒体报道,一家优衣库线下店员表示,曾有线上购买的顾客带大行李箱来门店退换。

  对于新规的影响,张培英认为,此举对于企业的盈利能力等方面的影响不大,更显著的影响可能是消费者对于品牌的认知。消费者对品牌的认可度包含了产品质量、价格以及售后服务等各方面,“取消线上线下同步的售后服务,容易让消费者产生担忧,并进一步影响购买行为,在同等的竞争环境下,能提供更全面服务的品牌会得到更高的客户认可度”。

  红利消退转型求生存

  近年来,优衣库在中国市场的增长明显放缓。

  财报显示,2024财年优衣库大中华区营收仅增长9.2%,营业利润微增0.5%,远低于此前双位数增速。更严峻的是,中国区单店营收仅为日本本土的一半,市场份额跌破2%。

  优衣库的困境并非个例。ZARA、H&M等快时尚品牌同样面临增长瓶颈,消费者转向更具性价比的“平替”产品。尼尔森IQ数据显示,2024年中国消费者对价格敏感度上升,35%的消费者更在意低价,而追求高端价值的消费者占比下降。

  在中国市场的增长低迷,同样反映到了门店数量上。此前,优衣库创始人柳井正曾对中国市场做过一个乐观的预估:中国市场可以容纳3000家优衣库门店,并将每年在华的净增门店数量定为80家。

  不过自2018年开始,优衣库在中国市场的门店净增目标从未完成过,结合往年情况来看,优衣库在中国的门店净增数量甚至出现持续下滑趋势。2021财年至2023财年,优衣库在中国的门店分别净增了66家、64家和35家。到了2024财年,这一数量仅为30家。

  面对增长压力,优衣库调整战略,关闭低效门店,聚焦单店盈利能力。此外,优衣库加强线上布局,电商销售额占比提升至20%,并计划通过直播带货进一步拉动增长。

  业内人士指出,位置偏远、门店规模小、服务质量差的门店如今已经很难展现品牌形象,也难以产生盈利,小店的价值可以由线上店铺代替,而能够提供更多服务、增强客户体验的大店更能起到传播品牌形象的功能。

  优衣库的案例表明,单纯依赖门店扩张的模式已难以为继。ZARA、H&M等品牌同样在收缩门店,关小店、开大店,试图向高端化形象迈进,转向数字化和本土化策略。

  不过,一味地开大店、关小店也无法让快时尚品牌们一劳永逸。大消费行业分析师杨怀玉在此前接受北京商报记者采访时指出,国际快时尚品牌的红利正在消退,H&M等品牌已不算是商场最好的选择或必须引入的品牌,一般只能按商场正常的条件租赁,而核心商圈的租金通常较高,也将增加品牌的财务压力,同时核心商圈内竞争激烈,品牌需要不断创新和优化才能脱颖而出。

  北京商报记者蔺雨葳

热点栏目自选股数据中心行情中心资金流向模拟交易客户端

  金山软件(03888)公布金山办公(688111.SH)2025年第一季度业绩,营业收入约13.01亿元,同比增长6.22%。归属于上市公司股东的净利润约4.03亿元,同比增长9.75%。基本每股收益0.87元。

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