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热点栏目自选股数据中心行情中心资金流向模拟交易客户端

  转自:北京商报

  业绩依然没有太多改善,报喜鸟对户外市场的布局显得迫切了一些。根据最新财报数据,2024年报喜鸟出现营收、净利润双下滑。究其原因,报喜鸟方面认为,上涨的营销费用一定程度上影响了公司整体业绩表现。营销费用的上涨是报喜鸟探索品牌年轻化的方式之一,但从主品牌报喜鸟收入下滑来看,这个方式似乎已经难以奏效。

  将目光放置整个老牌服装行业可以看到,在业绩压力下,越来越多服装品牌或是进军房地产领域,或是进行股权投资以寻求更好的发展。而报喜鸟选择的是,向火热的户外赛道加码布局。

  当营销不再是万能牌,户外领域的增长让报喜鸟感到欣喜。从发力过去不被重视的户外品牌乐飞叶到斥资收购美国高端户外品牌Woolrich,报喜鸟布局户外的意图显得急迫,但当户外市场已经进入下半场竞争,回归到专业竞争的户外市场还有多少机会留给报喜鸟?

  营销失效

  过去一年,营销上的投入没有给报喜鸟带来之前的效果,反而在一定程度上侵蚀了利润。根据财报数据,2024年报喜鸟实现营业收入51.53亿元,同比下降1.91%;实现净利润4.95亿元,同比下降29.07%。

  关于业绩下滑,报喜鸟在财报中表示,“公司加大市场拓展力度、品牌推广投入及人力成本增加导致营销费用增加,财务费用增加、商铺出售亏损及增加品牌商誉减值计提等导致利润下降”。

  根据报喜鸟披露的财报信息,2024年报喜鸟销售费用为21.3亿元,同比增长了4.88%。报喜鸟营销费用上涨已经持续一段时间。在2023年,报喜鸟销售费用为20.31亿元,同比增长18.71%。2024年上半年,报喜鸟销售费用同比增长7.96%。根据公开资料,在2023年,报喜鸟品牌合作的明星包括张若昀、庞博和张云龙;哈吉斯品牌则牵手了赵又廷、李现、陈都灵、尹昉、董洁、李纯等明星进行营销宣传。

  之所以出现营销费用连续增长的情况,大概是因为营销费用的投入曾经为报喜鸟带来过不错的效果。2023年,报喜鸟营收、净利润分别增长21.82%、52.11%。报喜鸟在财报中也明确表示:“公司抓住市场机遇,通过品牌推广和精准营销提升市场份额。”

  不过,营销费用促进业绩增长的方法很难一直奏效。从细分业务来看,2024年,报喜鸟旗下西服品牌报喜鸟营收下滑8.35%;宝鸟下滑2.89%;而在2023年支撑业绩大幅增长的休闲服装品牌哈吉斯在2024年的收入增长为1.29%,相比2023年24.12%的增速大幅放缓。

  在盘古智库研究院高级研究员江瀚看来,报喜鸟净利出现下滑可能也和消费者偏好的变化有关。“年轻一代消费者对产品的时尚性、个性化要求越来越高,而报喜鸟在产品线或品牌形象的年轻化转型上尚未完全满足这些需求。此外,公司原材料价格、人工成本等成本上涨,对净利润造成了一定的影响。”江瀚说道。

  就业绩发展相关问题,北京商报记者对报喜鸟进行采访,但截至发稿未收到回复。

  扩大户外品牌阵容

  报喜鸟成立于2001年,主营业务为品牌服装的研发、生产和销售,产品品类涵盖西服、西裤、衬衫、夹克等。过去,报喜鸟一度成为高端西服的代名词,但在近两年,报喜鸟的西服业务时有出现下滑状态。相反,报喜鸟代理的户外运动品牌乐飞叶正在以不小的速度发展。

  根据财报数据,2024年,乐飞叶收入为3.35亿元,同比增长27.95%;2023年,乐飞叶收入2.62亿元,同比增长41%,也是在这一年,报喜鸟开始将乐飞叶的营收数据单独列出。乐飞叶是法国户外运动品牌,报喜鸟在2016年获得该品牌的代理权以此进入户外市场。不过在最初的几年里,乐飞叶在报喜鸟的战略中似乎并不重要,在2023年之前,乐飞叶的营收数据一直没有单独出现在报喜鸟的财报中。不过,从2024年的营收数据来看,乐飞叶在报喜鸟整体营收中的占比并不大,营收占比不足10%。

  虽然营收占比不大,但乐飞叶的增长让报喜鸟感到欣喜,而户外赛道也被报喜鸟看重并有意进行布局。如在渠道方面,报喜鸟加强乐飞叶品牌线下渠道布局,2024年网点数量净增20家。在品牌推广方面,在报喜鸟的主导下,乐飞叶与瞿颖、蒋勤勤、林更新、张云龙、李雪琴等明星合作进行营销推广。

  此外,报喜鸟也在扩大旗下户外品牌的阵容。在2024年底,业界传出报喜鸟将收购美国高端户外品牌Woolrich在欧洲市场以外的全部商标权和经营权的消息。随后在2025年3月,消息得以证实,报喜鸟发布了关于完成对Woolrich品牌全球(欧洲除外)知识产权的收购交割公告,此次交易总对价为3.84亿元。

  Woolrich是来自美国的一个户外品牌,于1830年在美国的宾夕法尼亚州成立。品牌以其高质量的羊毛制品闻名,并逐渐扩展至猎装、滑雪等户外系列产品,定价范围在290—1000美元之间,属于中高端产品定位。报喜鸟此番的收购填补了其在高端户外领域的布局空白。

  新手的压力

  不可否认,户外确实是当下最火热的赛道之一,从整体户外市场规模来看,市场规模正在上升。根据公开数据,中国市场2023年户外装备市场规模为872亿元,预计到2028年将突破千亿元,达到1113亿元。此前有机构预测,到2025年,运动户外用品的消费市场规模将以双位数复合增长率持续扩大,接近6000亿元。

  但市场规模火爆是一方面,能不能进入,进入有多少机会是另一个话题。以高调宣布转型户外市场的美邦服饰来说,从其发布的业绩数据来看,效果并不是很明显。2024年,美邦服饰宣布转型户外赛道,甚至提出要做始祖鸟平替,但根据美邦服饰发布的2024年业绩预告,预计公司2024年亏损1.5亿—2.2亿元。

  把目光继续转回到报喜鸟身上,目前报喜鸟旗下的户外品牌包括代理的乐飞叶和收购的Woolrich。根据此前报喜鸟在投资者互动平台透露的信息,报喜鸟代理的乐飞叶授权期限至2026年12月31日。

  另外,根据公开资料,报喜鸟收购的Woolrich品牌包括在中国、美国、加拿大、澳大利亚等26个国家及地区的核心知识产权及除欧洲市场之外的全球市场的经营权。这意味着Woolrich欧洲市场的经营权并不在报喜鸟手中。值得一提的是,该品牌在欧洲市场的收入占比高达75%—80%。

  除此之外,户外市场虽然火热,但已经不是新兴赛道,这个赛道聚集了大大小小不同规模的玩家。除了像安踏、耐克等这些专业的运动品牌布局外,如北面、探路者、哥伦比亚等垂直的户外品牌已经早早入局。此外,近几年波司登、骆驼等品牌也在加大力度探索布局户外赛道,相比来说,商务男装起家的报喜鸟怎么都算是新手,作为新手想要分走一部分市场大概率也不会那么容易。

  时尚产业独立分析师、上海良栖品牌管理有限公司创始人程伟雄对北京商报记者分析道:“当下户外市场还处在风口期,国内资本、企业都在入局,报喜鸟有闲钱进入可以理解,但从实际情况来看,户外赛道严格来讲已经进入下半场,竞争进一步加剧。户外原本是一个专业赛道,但在中国市场很多品牌将其延伸到了生活、休闲领域,无形中扩大了市场,在进入下半场竞争加剧之际,户外赛道最终还是要回归到专业竞争的赛道上,所以对于以商务男装起家的报喜鸟而言,此时布局户外的意义不大。”

  “单纯从户外市场专业角度来看,报喜鸟既不专业也不擅长,此时进入与众多品牌博弈,看似是潜入风口,但实际上对于报喜鸟而言压力不小。”程伟雄补充道。

  北京商报记者张君花

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